Every holiday season, my mind goes straight to dessert. This year, there will be no pumpkin pie on my Thanksgiving table. Instead, I am serving a silky pumpkin flan, a custard that celebrates the chemistry of caramel and eggs. Inspired by both Goan bebinca and classic Latin flan, it merges roasted pumpkin purée, condensed milk, and caramelized sugar into a glossy, burnished dessert with the perfect jiggle.
Why You’ll Love This Recipe
- Creamy custard topped with deep amber caramel
- Make-ahead friendly for holiday entertaining
- Uses roasted pumpkin or sweet potato for a seasonal twist
- A dessert that shows how science and flavor connect
The Science of Flan
1. Caramelization
Caramelization is the controlled browning of sugar. When sugar heats, it breaks down into hundreds of new flavor molecules that create a bittersweet aroma and amber color. In this recipe, sugar is cooked with a small amount of water and cream of tartar [potassium bitartrate]. The water helps dissolve the sugar evenly, and the acid in the cream of tartar keeps crystals from forming. Fresh lemon juice can be used instead.
Acids slow caramelization, while alkaline ingredients such as baking soda speed it up. For this flan, a slow, steady caramelization gives better flavor control.
Temperature guide:
- First toasty aroma at about 295°F [146°C]
- Deep amber color at about 330°F [166°C]
Make the caramel in a saucepan and then pour it into the baking pan. This gives more control and helps prevent scorching.
2. The Custard Base
A flan custard contains eggs, milk, and sugar. In this pumpkin version, roasted pumpkin purée adds structure, so fewer eggs are needed. Too many eggs make the custard rubbery.
Avoiding bubbles:
- Stir gently with a silicone spatula rather than whisking.
- Infuse spices such as a cinnamon stick or lightly cracked green cardamom pods into the warm milk instead of using ground spices, which float to the top.
- Allow the milk to rest overnight for flavor and to let trapped air escape.
For an experiment, I also tried removing air with a food vacuum sealer, a technique borrowed from lab work. It produced a smooth, bubble-free texture similar to the overnight method, but it is optional.
Do not heat the milk beyond 180°F [82°C]. Higher temperatures denature the milk proteins and make the flan firm instead of creamy.
Eggs and temperature:
Sugar raises the temperature at which egg proteins set. Whole eggs alone coagulate at 165°F [74°C], but in a flan with sugar and milk, the setting point rises to about 175°F [80°C]. Use a thermometer to check doneness. The sides should be set and the center slightly jiggly.
3. The Water Bath
Bake the flan in a water bath to ensure gentle, even heat. Pour boiling water into the roasting pan so that it reaches halfway up the sides of the flan pan. The water surrounds the pan and prevents the custard from overheating. The top surface, which is exposed to oven air, will still cook slightly faster, so remove the flan when the center trembles. Residual heat will finish cooking it.
Tools You’ll Need
- Round baking pan 8 in [20 cm] or 9 in [23 cm] wide, about 3 in [7.5 cm] deep
- Large roasting pan for the water bath
- Silicone spatula for mixing
- Digital thermometer for accuracy
- Optional: Food vacuum sealer for degassing the custard
Serving and Storage
Let the baked flan rest overnight in the refrigerator so the custard sets completely. If condensation forms on the surface, tilt the pan and blot the water gently with a paper towel without touching the flan.
To unmold, run a thin knife around the edge, place a rimmed plate over the pan, and invert. Tap lightly until the flan releases and the caramel flows over the top. The flan will keep for up to three days, refrigerated and covered.
Flavor Variations
- Replace pumpkin with roasted sweet potato or kabocha.
- Substitute part of the milk with coconut milk for a tropical flavor.
- Infuse the milk with a vanilla bean or a star anise pod for added warmth.
The Takeaway
This flan is both a dessert and a small chemistry lesson. The balance of sugar, heat, and eggs creates a silky custard and deep caramel flavor. Each slice is proof that understanding the science behind ingredients makes food more delicious.
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Spiced Pumpkin Flan
Flan or creme caramel is a childhood dessert that’s continued to remain a favorite no matter how old I get. This pumpkin flan is golden and carries a delicate warm scent of spices making it a favorite at home as well as a popular alternative to pumpkin pie at our Thanksgiving dinners. The flan can be made ahead of time making it a fantastic choice for a dinner party.
- Yield: One 8 in/20 cm circular flan
Ingredients
For the Caramel
¼ cup/60 ml water
⅛ tsp cream of tartar
¾ cup/150 g sugar
For the Flan
One 14 oz/400 g can sweetened condensed milk
One 12 oz/340 g can unsweetened evaporated milk
1 cup/240 ml whole millk
One 2 in/5 cm piece cinnamon stick
4 green cardamom pods, cracked
1 tsp ground ginger
½ tsp ground turmeric
3 large eggs
7 ¼ oz/210 g pumpkin purée
Instructions
- First, prepare the caramel. Combine the water, and cream of tartar in a small saucepan. Pour the sugar into the center of the saucepan. Cook without stirring over medium heat until the sugar starts to caramelize and turn dark amber brown, 6 to 8 minutes. The caramel should start to turn color at 290F/143C. Pour the hot liquid into an 8 in/20 cm circular cake pan. The caramel cools fast and hot, so carefully and quickly rotate the pan to help the caramel coat the surface. Keep aside until ready to use. The caramel can be made a day ahead of time. Wrap the pan with cling film or a lid and leave it at room temperature.
- Prepare the custard base. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, add the condensed milk, evaporated milk, and whole milk. Stir with a silicone spatula. Add the cinnamon, cardamom, and turmeric and cook until the milk reaches 180F/82C. Remove from the heat and let sit covered for 30 minutes or until cooled to room temperature. This mixture can be prepared a day ahead of time and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. There is no need to warm it before use. Remove and discard the spices.
- Preheat the oven to 325F/165C.
- While the oven preheats, crack the eggs into a large mixing bowl. Break the yolks using a silicone spatula. Slowly stir the eggs so they combine but avoid stirring aggressively, or air will get trapped. Stir in the pumpkin purée. Add 1 cup of the milk mixture and stir gently until combined. Pour the egg mixture into the milk and stir with the spatula until combined. Hold the flat end of the silicone spatula right over the layer of caramel in the prepared baking pan. Set a fine mesh strainer over the spatula and slowly pour the custard base into the pan.
- Place a deep, wide baking dish that can easily fit the cake pan in the preheated oven. Place a circular wire rack inside the dish or make a thick, 8 in/20 cm ring with aluminum foil to prevent the pan from touching the base of the baking dish. Carefully place the baking dish over the rack or ring in the center of the larger dish. Pour boiling water from the kettle into the space between the baking pan and the large dish and fill it to at least 2 in/5 cm of boiling water. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes or until the sides of the flan are firm and the center is still slightly tender and jiggly; the internal temperature should read 170F/77C. Remove the cake pan from the baking dish. Transfer to a wire rack and let it cool to room temperature. Cover the cake pan with a plate or plastic wrap and leave it in the refrigerator for at least 6 hours, preferably overnight, to chill and set.
- When ready to serve, run a small knife along the inside edges of the pan. Place a large serving plate over the baking pan. Holding them tightly, flip the pan and the plate, and tap gently to release the flan onto the plate. Pour any remaining caramel from the pan over the flan. Serve chilled or cold. Refrigerate any leftovers in an airtight container for up to 3 to 4 days.
Notes
- Cream of tartar prevents the caramel from crystallizing and hardening as it cooks, making the syrup easier to handle.
- The cake pan I used here is 8 in/20 cm wide and 3 in/ cm tall, allowing me to use 2 in/5 cm of boiling water in the water bath. If your pan is shallower, use the lower limit of ½ in/ 12 mm listed in the instructions.
- Be careful when working with the caramel; it’s very hot and can cause severe burns.
- Both the caramel and milk mixture can be prepared a day ahead of time.
- For a more robust flavor, leave the milk with the spices overnight in the refrigerator to infuse. There’s a second advantage to leaving the milk overnight, it helps degas the liquid, and consequently, there’s a lower chance of air bubbles in the flan. Warm the milk to room temperature before using it.