This recipe for Grilled Nectarines with Hazelnut Aillade Bulgur Salad is a small taste of what I explore in the opening pages of the Fire chapter in Fundamentals of Flavor. I trace fire back further than the kitchen — to the Sun itself, where nuclear fusion in its core releases energy that eventually reaches us as heat and light. From there, the chapter moves into how humans learned to wield that energy: the caramelization and Maillard reactions that turn a grilled nectarine’s natural sugars into something deeper and more complex, the same transformation that gives a seared steak its crust. It’s part science, part history, part memory — grounded in fire’s place across cultures, from Agni in Hinduism to Vulcan in Roman mythology.
I look forward to the end of summer, the potential end of the blistering heat, and the new cooler season that brings in a fresh wave of produce like apples and winter squash to savor. But this transition phase between the seasons is when nectarines are at their absolute best.
A grilled nectarine is a marvelous feat of cooking. You need to start with one that’s ripe yet firm, one that hasn’t moved off into the arena of uncomfortable mushiness. As the fruit grills, the heat softens the fruit, the sweet juices release, and the natural sugars get a chance to caramelize and blister. A grill pan or a hot grill will achieve this harmoniously. The fruit’s edges now carry a smoky, slightly bitter note that plays beautifully against the sweetness inside the nectarine.
Then comes the aillade, a luscious garlic-nut sauce that arose in the Toulousain and Ariège areas of the Occitan-speaking southwest France, one that I hadn’t heard of until a few summers ago on a holiday. The original medieval version used garlic, nuts like almonds, and breadcrumbs; it was a condiment you could use to garnish dishes and quickly add flavor to soups. Pound the ingredients with olive oil to make a loose, paste-like sauce. In this version, I’ve used hazelnuts and orange zest, which pair well with grilled stone fruit.
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The grilled nectarines and coarse hazelnut aillade come together with fresh torn mint and basil, creamy, briny crumbled feta, and warm bulgur. It’s quickly become one of my favorite dishes for a big summer spread, and it’s wonderful for a Labor Day table (it travels well too) and is also fantastic as a weeknight dinner alongside grilled chicken or fish.
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Grilled Nectarines with Bulgur Salad and Hazelnut Aillade/Fundamentals of Flavor
This is a hearty grain salad that can be eaten on its own but also goes well with other meals. I love to serve it as a part of a large summer spread. Grilling gives the fruit a delicious smoky edge and makes the fruit softer and juicier. — From the Fire chapter of Fundamentals of Flavor (Chronicle Books, 2026).
- Yield: 4
Ingredients
1 cup [160 g] coarse bulgur
For The Hazelnut Aillaide
1 cup [120 g] raw hazelnuts, with skins
3 or 4 garlic cloves, chopped
6 Tbsp [90 ml] extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing and drizzling
Fine sea salt
1 Tbsp grated orange zest
2 yellow nectarines or peaches (about 5¾ oz [165 g] each), ripe but firm, halved and pitted
4 oz [115 g] feta, crumbled
½ cup [6 g] mint leaves, torn
½ cup [6 g] tightly packed basil leaves, torn
Instructions
- Cook the bulgur with a pinch of salt per the package instructions. Alternatively, in a medium saucepan with a lid, bring 2 cups [480 ml] of water, the bulgur, and a pinch of salt to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, covered, until all the water is absorbed, 10 to 12 minutes. Remove from the heat, fluff with a fork, and keep covered until it cools to room temperature. The bulgur can be made a day ahead and stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator.
- To make the aillade, preheat the oven to 350°F [180°C].
- Arrange the hazelnuts in a single layer on a small baking sheet and toast in the oven until golden brown and fragrant, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the oven. To remove the skins, quickly transfer the nuts while still warm to a clean lint-free kitchen towel and rub gently. Cool before using.
- While the nuts toast, in a large mortar and pestle, combine the garlic, 2 Tbsp of the olive oil, and a pinch of salt. Mash until the garlic is smooth. Add the cooled hazelnuts, zest, and remaining 4 Tbsp [60 ml] olive oil and pound to a coarse and chunky paste. Season with salt. The aillade can be made in a food processor: Pulse for just a few seconds to avoid making a purée.
- Clean the grill grates and brush them with a little oil. Preheat the grill, or a grill pan, to medium-high heat.
- Brush the cut sides of the nectarines with oil and place them cut-side down on the hot grate. (If using a gas grill, close the grill lid.) Cook until they turn golden brown and caramelized and develop grill char marks, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer the nectarines to a cutting board and halve each piece again.
- In a large serving bowl, combine the bulgur, half of the hazelnut aillade, the feta, mint, and basil. Top with the grilled nectarines and drizzle the remaining aillade over them. Taste and season. Drizzle with extra olive oil if needed. Serve warm or at room temperature.
- Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
Notes
- Besides nectarines and peaches, plums, cherries, pineapple, cantaloupe, and watermelon work fantastic here. Cherries are trickier because they are smaller, so use a grill basket or pan to cook them.
- Besides bulgur, other whole grains such as farro and wild rice work beautifully.
