In a medium saucepan, bring to a boil over high heat 3 cups [720 ml] water; peas, 1 tsp fine sea salt; and baking soda. Lower the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook until the peas are completely cooked and tender, 45 to 75 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside the peas with the cooking liquid. No need to remove the skins that will have risen to the top, but if you must, use a slotted spoon to skim them out.

In a medium skillet, warm 2 Tbsp neutral oil over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add 2 medium/600 g yellow or white onions, halved and thinly sliced. Sauté until they start to brown, 4 to 6 minutes. Add ginger and garlic. Sauté until warmed and fragrant, 30 to 45 seconds. Add the coconut. Sauté until the coconut begins to darken slightly, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to a blender or food processor.

To the blender, add garam masala; 2 Tbsp chopped cilantro; Kashmiri chilli powder; and 1 cup [240 ml] water. Pulse until smooth.

Clean the saucepan and warm 2 Tbsp neutral oil over medium-high heat. Add the remaining 1 onion, and sauté until light brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, then stir in the ground coconut mixture and cook until it starts to bubble, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the tomato paste, sugar, and 1/4 cup [60 ml] water. Once the mixture begins to bubble again, lower the heat to a simmer. Continue to cook, stirring, until the mixture starts to pull away from the sides of the saucepan and the fat begins to separate, 5 to 8 minutes.

Fold in the peas with the cooking liquid. Taste and season with fine sea salt. Bring to a boil over high heat to warm the peas through, and then remove from the heat. Garnish with 2 Tbsp chopped cilantro.

Serve hot or warm with plain rice or flatbread. Leftovers can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 days and frozen for up to 1 month in a freezer-safe airtight container.